Marek Marek messed up yesterday, did not keep his promise and did not write anything. Today I will try to fix it. First, a few words about Chiapas. It is, next to Oaxaca, the poorest state in Mexico. It was here, many years ago, that the man in the mask, Subcomandante Marcos, began his rebellion. But I’ll tell you about what life here looks like in a moment. We stayed in Palenque for only one day. The weather, or rather the very high temperature and stuffiness prevailing here, drove us to another trail in the evening. Before that, we visited the ruins of Palenque, a city located in the jungle (those cicadas), and the rest of the day at the Agua Azul Cascadas waterfalls. It is a wonderfully beautiful place. The cold from the water makes it difficult to force yourself to return to the city. It is also a very dangerous waterfall. Not a year goes by without a daredevil trying to impress his girlfriend by risking a painful death on the rocky bottom of a waterfall.
Not knowing where to go next, we chose the nearest town (a few hours by bus), San Cristobal de las Casas. Departure very late in the evening and arrival at 6 am. 7 hours of sleep in a reclining seat in a very luxurious bus. But when we arrive in the city, we are shocked. This is one of the most beautiful places in all of Mexico. A man falls in love at first sight. San Cristobal is also a great starting point for local Indian towns. You just have to remember that the closer to the city, the more tourist-oriented the villages are.
What attracts attention is the multitude of children whose parents force themselves to work as sellers of cheap souvenirs. Children dressed in traditional colorful costumes. Some sad, others smiling. When they accost you, it’s impossible not to buy some small things. Of course, you bargain until you drop. The poverty here means that absolutely nothing can be wasted. Even a used car tire will work great as a sole for work shoes.
In each of the towns, you will see two Catholic churches. One of them is run according to the Mexican tradition. The locals call such a temple “illegal”. When you go inside, regardless of the time of day, you will see a crowd of people. The church is empty only on Wednesdays, because it is not a good day for prayer. Some walk around the interior of the church, others sit on the stone floor. Some of them pray, others undergo medical procedures performed by folk shamans.
The second church is the legal one, recognized by the Vatican. As a rule, it is empty. On the door hangs a ban on chickens and candles other than white. Why? Chickens are used here in magical ceremonies, which is obviously inconsistent with the official position of the Church. There is one more thing that distinguishes official Catholicism from local Catholicism. The figures of saints in the latter have mirrors hanging from their necks.
It is worth saying a few words about the political system in force in the local Indian communities. Each of them has a so-called leader, i.e. its leader. This function can be chosen by anyone who registers, the order of applications is decisive. The term of office lasts one year, so if 16 candidates come forward, the last one on the list has to wait 15 years.
The function of a leader is unpaid – he does not receive any remuneration. Worse, he has to ensure the functioning of certain institutions and rituals, paying out of his own pocket. So, before taking up the position, candidates must save for a few years to be able to afford to perform an honorable function. The only benefit is prestige and the opportunity to go down in history.
We ended the day with a walk around San Cristobal. The city is loved by travelers. Because of its location, appearance, but above all because of the wonderful climate. Tomorrow we are leaving for Oaxaca. Expect fasting in two days. See you.